Fran on Holidays last year

Fran on Holidays last year
Vino at Mercatello

Friday, August 31, 2012

Cooking up a storm

First of all last night we had the biggest storm and I was awake for ages. It started about 2 and continued for about 3hours A one point it sounded like canons being fired down the streets.
So after a not very good night sleep we headed  off to find a taxi. I was very proud of myself because I managed to ring for a taxi and spoke to the operator in Italian

Pat and I did the most wonderful cooking class. I saw it advertised and sent an email to Paolo Monti and arranged to go today. It was held at an hotel about 20 mins from Lucca . We met chef Paolo and he was a typical Italian -short and charming man. The were 3 others - Pam and Peter from NY and Wendy from England. 

Well we were straight into it. There was a booklet with 3 starters, 3 pasta sauces and 3 main course. We  thought we would just be doing 1 of each but no Chef Paolo had other ideas and we were set to work chopping etc and got the sauces under way . The dolce started and various other tasks. He was so organised with a wicked sense of humour! 
We sat down to start eating around 12.30 and then had a break  to get the next part ready. By 3 we were full - of food , wine and great ideas for cooking. 

Some of the food included a lettuce sauce for prawn and pasta, a cooked tomato sauce to make other things to , a raw tomato sauce with basil on pasta:  porcini mushroom, shrimp and garlic sauce: lemon sauce for pork: , red wine, Marsala balsamic sauce with grapes reduction for beef,: fennel and orange salad topped with shrimp, caper berries:   mussels with vegetable garliccream , wine and Pernod ! Yum! 

I can't tell you what a wonderful time we had. So much fun, so much cooking, so much food. Needless to say we didn't eat a thing for the rest of the day. We went for a late passeggiata and around 9.30 had a  lemoncello (and listened to some jazz), purely for medicinal purposes ! It aids digestion. This I know as we went on a little tasting yesterday and limonchino was one we tried ( and bought) . 

Catherine arrives tomorrow and sadly Pat leaves. She has been great company and I'm sorry to say goodbye to her. 


Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Beautiful Barga

Woke early! Walked to the bus station near one of the ancient gates and bought the tickets ( all in Italian of course, by ourselves)

The bus ride takes  about an hour driving through a valley which changes from light industrial to pretty river, to power station , back to little towns. Then the climb up the hills to Barga. Steep corners and the bus tooting  as it approaches each corner. Quite entertaining.
We arrived at the old town gate and started to walk . Up. It's a lovely quiet town with winding streets all leading to the Duomo on the very top of the hill. It so beautiful and quiet and much be gorgeous in winter in the snow.

We had coffee on a verandah overlooking   the valley and checked out the numerous roof tops and then the art shops. We wandered through the churches and up and down the streets .... Then had lunch. Yum. Ricotta  spinach pasta.

Got back to Lucca around 4 and strolled home. Now washing and writing and having wine. Tonight another concert. This one across the road at the music academy. We have been listening to the rehearsals  for two days so thought we should go to the live concert!

More later. In case your are missing photos.... Check out Facebook . I am having a vesper spotting competition 

LUCCA is lovely

Monday morning we set off for the  bus station to take the bus to Barga- but took a wrong turn and missed the bus. Not entirely true. We didn't check the timetable and were aiming for the 10 am bus. But there wasnt  one! So we went toBagni da Lucca instead.
It has a reputation as a spa town set on a river.

WThe town is in two parts set along a rive. We went to the top town first and went into a hotel to get a map. The Italian was good enough to ask the man for a map and get his suggestions for what we should see. He was very willing to chat but his onion breath put us off and we were back on the sunny street before too long. We stopped for coffee and planned out walk. It was a strange little town . Very quiet and you could hardly see the river. The buildings were all along it , so we trudged up and ground the river. Very disappointing . We walked through the gardens and then decided to walk down to the lower town. I was all for hitch hiking to save ourselves a 1 k walk in the very hot sun along the narrow road but Pat and common sense prevailed!

We pokede around the lower town , had lunch and got the bus back to Lucca. I'm glad we're not staying there . No decent piazza!

We rested up befor our evening glass of wine then headed out for a stroll. Or passeggiata. We had dinner at a gat little restaurant Pat had been told about. I had Breast of quail with vegetables. Delicious.
We decided to try the tiramisu . Nice but too creamy. We'll have to try again!

TUESDAY:
Today we hired bikes and ride around the wall. It was such a lovely day. Blue sky, cool breeze an lots to look at. Mothers strolling with babies, men of all shapes and sizes jogging, some very attractive young ladies keeping their figures trim, older nonnas strolling and talking, some sitting in the shade reading. All sharing the space together. We finished by riding around the streets - the quieter ones sightseeing as we went. 

After the post ride coffee I returned to the apartment to shower and visit the language school and Pat went to visit Pfanner Palazzo and for a sport of shopping. The leather shops here are just amazing. Bags of e ey style in the most gorgeous colours. Orange being my personal favourite. When I was here with Catherine and Margaret about 4 years ago I bought an orange bag for Marg. they are still beautiful.

Tonight we had a vino and went to a Puccini concert in a church. A young couple soprano and bass put on a very good  performance. We followed this with lovely food at Gigi.

Tomorrow we are trying Barga again. This time with  a timetable check.


Sunday, August 26, 2012

White Night

What a night it was! Thousands of people mostly locals all wandering around the town. Bands playing different styles of music in each piazza. People eating , dancing, kids chasing balloons, shops  selling full on late into the night. . We had dinner in the ancient Anfiteatre with a band belting out old favourites.
Then just on midnight a spectacular light show . A real one -as finally Lucca was going to get some rain. And down it came about 12.30am just as we got home.
It poured for a few hours so I can only imagine  how soaked everyone got.
Took ages to go to sleep listening to the rain , the people and the sirens.
Our apartment here is in an ancient building on the 3 rd floor opposite the Guigni tower. It's 2 bedroom, spotless, views over the roof tops and free wifi!

We are also opposite an old church with Pucini concerts each evening -so that's where we will be at least one night this week.

The next morning it was COOL so after breakfast  we walked around the walls of Lucca. For those who know Lucca you know how beautiful that is.  It was fresh and shaded as the sun came out. Lots of bikes but today we walked. It was gorgeous.
Finished with coffee and back to the apartment to freshen up for the afternoon activities which included a stroll around the rain washed streets. The shops stayed closed  all day so things were quiet.
Saw lots of art students drawing and painting and I thought I really should be getting my sketch book book out. Di Kelly gave me a lovely little sketch book to encourage some drawing. I will do it !

In the evening we found a lovely little trattoria called Sergios and it was a really good family run place. I had wild boar stew with polenta. Yum

Tomorrow will visit the language school which happens to around the corner!
Then a bus ride to nearby Barga

Ci vediamo readers

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Lerici to Lucca

Up in time to pack,  tidy up and have coffee with the 2 nonnas at the bar near the Castillo. Over the last few days they have come to expect to see us each day for a cool drink after our walk up hill. Today it's arrivederci as we struggle down with our bags.

Got Lericis best taxi driver. He chatted to us all the way to Sarzanna -in Italian ( and a little English)
He was so nice and so loves this area. Told us all the things we should be staying on to see and do. Yes it is a beautiful area and not  over run with tourists. Almost everyone on holidays are  from areas north of here -including Milan.

Got the train -no problems and are now in a lovely apartment just across the road from Luccas famous Guinigi Tower.
More later as I should sleep because tonight is white night -where everything goes all night!

Oh what a night!

Sagra in La Serra

Ieri sera
_last night we went to a Sagra -a kind if food festival in a little village . This one was in a town I had visited before when staying with my niece Berti two years ago. It was a snail Sagra! Each village has one in summer and choose one type of food The Sagra lasts 3 days.
We arrived late after Prosecco in Lerici. At about 9pm we joined the queue to buy tickets  . Met a lovely German girl who told us a few things about the Sagra. Then the fun started. We found a table of people to sit with -in the middle of a long table and it wasn't long before we got talking to the couple around us including a lovely couple from Milano and a funny couple from nearby San Terenzo.
Imagine
Ragaazzi  swaggering, lights in trees twinkling, music blaring, young lovers kissing, people slurping snails, and seafood, mopping up the  juices with slabs of  bread. Young waiters in blue helping  out. Drinks flowing, cigarette smoke twirling and people young and old heading onto the dance floor including ME!
At midnight Pat  ( and I guessI) had worn ourselves out and didn't know if we could get a bus or taxi back to Lerici several miles away. I tried to hitch a lift with Franco but his wife wasn't keen and he only had a bike! Then we met a lovely young woman and when we asked her to phone a taxi for us she said she was going to Lerici. So lucky us-it all turned out ok!

We got back to our village and the film festival was in full swing so we joined all the crowds eating gelato and had one before our 80 step climb home to bed!

Little sleep in before our morning swim. Quiet lunch in our apartment sleep then more Prosecco
dinner and then we went to the outdoor cinema.
Imagine:
Lots of people walking along the sea front, children squealing on the carousel, rows of white chairs facing the large outdoor screen with the twinkling lights of the Golf de Poeti in the background.
Short films ( some with subtitles) some good some silly, one scary. 80 steps home to bed. We leave this lovely place tomorrow morning. Saturday.


Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Lovely Lerici

Hello Readers
It's been awhile and the reason is - it's  just so beautiful here and we are so laid back I find it hard to get to the wine bar to get my free dose of wifi.
We are swimming daily with the nonnas. They are gorgeous to watch - and we are loving observing them. There's a lot to be said for a daily swim and chat.
This is followed by cafe and sometimes gelati!
We went to the Cinque Terre yesterday by boat. A very good way to see it and reminded me of ten years ago when I was here with Wendy and Ginetta.
It was very busy and so hot. We got our own deck chair and umbrella at Monterossa and we wanted to swim. The water is blue , aqua but not as clean here as in Lerici!
Tonight we are off to dinner at a lovely enotecca and then a jazz and blues session at one of the cafes

Oops I can here the bells and they are chiming ave Maria. It happens at 8pm every night. Bliss

As we sit here sipping Prosecco I can see the little blue train making it rounds along to the next beach, people back from the beach dressing up for dinner, music from the cafe, gelati eating kids, A man in a bright pink shirt and white shorts looking very gorgeous, ladies in white linen, a few English tourists smiling, boats bobbing, lights starting to come on as it's 8.15, children playing games, people reading menus,  all of it entrancing.
Tomorrow we are going to go to the nearby island Palmaria for a swim and lunch. Then in the evening  to a nearby village for the Sagra - a summer festival kind of night and they focus on a food. This one is snails!
I'm sitting in my new vestiti de  cotone , molti colori con  fiore ( cotton flowered dress)

Hope you are all well. Send email or comments - its lovely hearing from you .



Friday, August 17, 2012

Pip laughs at the namesake shop

Rochester Castle

Steve at his Uncle's restored headstone
Canterbury Cathedral

Last day in England

We toured Canterbury Cathedral and were in awe at the size and sense of majesty. It's the place where Thomas Beckett was killed and has been thoughtfully restored.
After leaving town we headed for Rochester and the start of Steve's nostalgia trip. He has done so much research on the background of his Grandfather and has written and published the history of his Grandfather and family, after he and sister Marg made a trip there several years ago.
Rochester is a very pleasant small town south of London .

 We walked around the town, saw the castle and the rather lovely Cathedral had coffee and far welled Pip. She is returning to London for 2 more days before heading off to NY. We've had a great time with her along. She has a great sense of humour and we had lots of laughs together....and the line 'I love Murphy's" became our catch cry . It came from Ireland where we overheard a young boy plaintively telling his mum "I love Murphy's" as he passed the ice cream shop (made by Murphy's of course!)  ......you had to be there.

After leaving Pip we continued the tour . The hospital  where his uncle was brought when he died falling from a cliff. The cliff itself, the various houses.....etc..... It was interesting and mad my little trip to McGann's pub look very insignificant.

We drove on to Crawley in the late afternoon and met up with Pat my friend coming to Italy with me. We hd dinner and now I  use get to bed.

So , domani Italia...... Buona Sera.

Brighton to Canterbury

We had a wonderful night in our new room and headed off to buy a new camera and get to Brighton for fish and chips.
Brighton is something else. Big and busy and loads of people with many  tattoos and few teeth.
The pier was really great - lots of fun things to do and we tried to do them all!
We particularly liked this one of me saving life saver Steve.

PHOTOS


Photos

Brighton Beach


Having fun at the fair with Pip



Steve re enacting the Battle of Hastings in 1066

Last night dinner in Canterbury

The boys have often said this to Steve....check out the wording!

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

ARUNDEL CASTLE

Slept well in our lovely house, where we had the top floor of 5! All walk up. It's a vy relaxed B&B with Sally our charming hostess. There are lots of family photos around and you actually feel like you are staying in a house  with a friend. Sally is very charming and helpful -allowing us to do a load of washing  and hang it in her basement.

We had breakfast in her conservatory looking onto the garden, meeting the other family staying. They had travelled all the way from Canterbury !
Pip and I set off after breakfast for a little look at the shops and Steve stayed to catch up on emails. The shops are rather good though not too many of them. I bought a new umbrella as mine was falling apart. Mind you it was from the time we were in Beijing for the Olympics.

We collected Steve and drove off to Eartham - a very small village Steve remembers visiting when he was a child living in London. He said he stayed in a large manor house near the church. We found the village and it seems the house is now a private school catering for day and boarding child's from 2-13 . I certainly hope they don't take the 2's for boarding!  We looked in the little village church and then had a drink at the pub the George. It's a great little local and I can see why people love to go  to the pub here in England. Especially when the weather is not so good.

Headed along the country style lanes to Climping a beach Steve also remembers visiting as a child. It was windy and quite un attractive and he must have had plastic saddles to reach the water.

We returned to Arundel to visit the castle rooms and spent a good 2 hours touring and getting to know the Howard family castle. It was rebuilt a hundred years ago and refurbished in mo recent years. It's great. Is banquet room is amazing and the Duke hosted his cousins wedding to an Italian prince there last year. The dining room is lovely and the Library was my favourite. All red and dark timbers and comfy chairs. I could really spend some time there.  The upstairs bedrooms are still used for the Dukes overflow of guests and reminded me of the room we stayed in at Carton House  Ireland.

W walked to the large town Cathedral where we spent about 10 mins. I took 2 photos and sat for a few minutes. W walked across the road to the local pub for a drink and I realised I had lost my camera . I ran back to the church........and it was gone! There wee only about 2 people and us and then by the time we left no one. So in ten minutes someone arrived and found my camera and took it!

So readers no photos for a while. We have Pips - but v few  of us. So tomorrow in Brighton I might be buying another camera. 

Portsmouth

After we left beautiful Downton Abbey, we headed down south stopping for lunch at a really lovely little country pub. It was cosy and full of over 60's as they offered a special price lunch Mon-Thurs. Steve didn't take advantage of the discount but Pip and I said not to be so proud and from now on he is to own up to being over 60!

Then the miserable rain started as we headed towards the beach. The traffic was awful and we were a little put  off and decided we just wanted to arrive at Portsmouth. Finally step foot into our sea front hotel which was not altogether inexpensive and it was like a dated 70's style small rooms slightly faded hotel. But it was opposite the water. We  headed off for a walk  which Pip and I continued when Steve decided his knee had had enough. We checked out the old amusement attraction on the paint cracked pier and the fish and chips shops dotted along the sea front. Showered and changed we headed off to find the area of the port Steve had been talking about. Instead we found a great little restaurant at the fish markets area with great views of the tower. Watching it light up and change colour was terrific .

We went on a little tour of Portsmouth by night, then off to bed. 

The next day after our breakfast of eggs we headed off down the coast. We called into Bognor Regis which I have always remembered
From tv shows. It was such a little "England goes to the beach" type of place. By now it was warm and sunny and people were sunning themselves and eating soft serve ice cream. There was a little blue train running along the particularly ordinary promenade and little shops selling plastic sandals so you could safely walk over the rocks on the beach to get to the water. All I could think was - no wonder people love our beaches with the white sand, trees and grass nearby and lovely paved area for walking. 

 We continued on and reached Arundel by about 3.30 and decided to visit the castle  gardens while the weather was still fine. The castle is the home of the present Duke of Norfolk -in fact the 17 th . The castle dominates the rather charming English town. The gardens were beautiful -some very lovely formal gardens, kitchen gardens playful gardens and a lovely chapel were several of the dead Dukes now reside. The present Duke Edward and wife Georgina live in private apartments with their 5 children. 

We wandered back to the main street before locating Byass house our B&B for 2 nights . Our hostess Sally looked puzzled on our arrival and didn't actually have us booked in . Slight mis communication on my . part - but hey I'd been doing lots of bookings ....... She had room for us as she juggled things around (she only has 4 rooms) anyway we had the top floor family area ( 2 bedrooms sharing a bathroom) and said we could move down into two other rooms tomorrow when another family arrived.

Walked into town and had a few drinks and then decided to eat at the Red Lion. It was really quite good. Home and asleep by 11 pm. No wonder we are sleeping in! 



Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Last night in IRELAND then Back in ENGLAND

After a wonderful stay including a last night at Carton House we arrived back into London and picked up a car at Gatwick. We went to the house at Canary Wharf and zoomed off to St Paul's Catherdral for their Evensong. Ian's wife was singing in the choir and they had special seats. It was great. Sat up in the choir stalls, so had a great view of everything. What's magnificent place.


After it was over we walked through the area behind St Paul's and went to Nix. It was a very nice stylish restaurant for oysters and steak. Had a lovely meal and still got home in time to share a wine and chat with Elizabeth and Peter McGregor and Erin ( waterpolo captain's parents and wife) They are lovely people and that was one of the things we missed with Rob not in the team. We always share with them and this time it was different.

An early start to pack up our things then a drive across the river to Bermondsey. It's just over Tower bridge. We met up with Georgia   and John and my friend Lynne from Canada. It was lovely seeing her again.

Then we collected our things and drove overe to Parson's Green to collect Pip. What a lot of driving. Steve is great -- knows his way around well and the little Our Lady of Directions was a good help.

We headed off for Henley and it was the most perfect evening. We arrived at a funny little pub and our rooms were really quite good. Headed down to the river and found the perfect summer pub and had the perfect summer drink. Pimms! Gorgeous night and several Gins and Pimms later we found a place for dinner and then back and watched some of the closing ceremony . I'm glad it's finally over! It was sad tho think Rob was so close to being there but a %$%^$^ of a coach put a stop to it.

And so to bed because we have our visit to Highclere Castle otherwise or better known as Downton Abbey of the TV show. Pip and I can't wait but Steve is not so enthusiastic. It's a boy thing so I'm glad Pip is here.

Photos soon


Friday, August 10, 2012

A few photos. Including one of "the rudest man in Ireland"

Only rude person in Ireland. Stopped to watch him digging the peat and he said"f@#@ off"
The walled garden at the Abbey - run by the nuns
Gorgeous Kylemore Abbey
On the drive from Galway to the Connemara and Clifden. Landscape rocky with lakes dotted all around.
Beautiful Galway
At McGann's Pub in Doolin. My maiden name!
On the edge of the beautiful Cliff of Moher
On the steps of Muckross House near Kenmare

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Ireland's National Treasure GOING for GOLD

 Among the many highlights today was watching Katie Taylor, local Irish lass,  win a GOLD medal at the Olympics. She had captured the imagination of all the Irish and even us! We had to make a stop during our drive to find a country pub and watch the flight with an assortment of folk who were our friends by the end of the fight.

In the morning we drove out to the Connemara area stopping first at Clifden which was abuzz with a pony show. The streets were busy with streets stalls selling all manner of things including hens. We continued on to the most beautiful place - Kylemore  Abbey - which was built as a house , a gift from a husband to his new wife. It's a real love story. They had 9 children and when on holiday on the Nile,  Margaret Henry died. He, Mitchell Henry, returned and had a Chapel built in the style of a Cathedral. It is gorgeous.

We also visited the garden, a walled garden, so lovely. It was bought by the Benedictine nuns after WW2 when their Abbey in Belgium was bombed. They started a school for young ladies. It's not a school now but the nuns are still there and run a craft business - making soap, chocolate and other assorted things.

We left the Abbey and planned on finding a suitable place to watch Katy fight the fight of the year. We stopped at a small country pub called the Anglers Rest.  We rushed in and every eye in the place turned and  looked at us - the interlopers! I asked "has the fight started" and they all broke into smiles and welcomed us with encouraging  cries of "come in ....it's about to start!"
It was a gem. By the time the fight was over and  GOLD won, we had new friends.

Tonight back in Galway we plan to hit the streets which are alive with people celebrating. In my opinion the Irish like a good flight and know how to celebrate.

Photos soon. Its not easy putting them on with the iPad. Does anyone know an easy way ?


Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Photos


GALWAY

Arrived in Galway this evening after a big day of driving and sight seeing. We set off from the B&B in Dingle at around 9 and it was a pea souper ! We tried to see more of the coast but it was thick fog. So we continued onto Tralee where we had a little walk , looked at all the roses got some info from the tourist office and scooted off for the ferry across the Shannon River. Weather started to clear and we had a good drive along the coast.

Stopped for lunch by the water and as the pub began to fill quickly ( we were the only people for about  5 min) and we realised why. Katie the local Irish lassie was about to box in the Olympic Games!. And box she did  - winning easily and providing some very colourful commentary from the announcers. She goes for GOLD  tomorrow and they predict the whole of Ireland will come to a halt at 5pm tomorrow. Can't wait!

Drove onto the Cliffs of Moher and by now it was fine and sunny. We only got a little lost because we decided to take a more minor road to look at the scenery and before we knew it we were lost. We stopped to ask directions from  a lady out walking along a country lane with 5 children and she gave some very encouraging directions. Then she told us she wasn't a local so could be wrong! How very Irish. We found the cliffs , along with lots of other tourists and climbed up the side to look over the magnificent cliffs. The area around the cliffs is all farm land with lots of stone fences and cattle grazing so it's an interesting scene with all the tour buses around the area.

We continued on and came to Doolin. I had heard about Doolin from Pip, my niece , who went to the McGann pub - my maiden name for those who don't know that interesting fact!. Pip had gone there during her travels,  so we followed  her instructions and found it. We were going to stay the night but I'm glad I changed in favour of 2 nights in Galway, as Doolin although quaint was just a little too small.

We found the McGann pub and I went in, all smiles, and we found two men at the bar . One had no teeth ( slight exaggeration ) and the other was what we would say was  "a sandwich short of a picnic". We asked if someone was there to serve us a drink as it seemed very quiet.
Just then a lady came out all happy gappy smiles,  wild red hair and looked strangely at me when I said my name was McGann. I asked if there was anyone named McGann around the area and she and the toothless man laughed together and said "oh no McGanns are from around Ennis." End of conversation! I wonder at the name of the pub!
We sat outside in the bright sunshine drinking and watched all these young people down the street drinking as well -all dressed up . It was their deb ball for the end of their school days! Very glamourous they were too .

We left Doolin and made our way to Galyway and into a lovely apartment. We needed a washing machine so I changed from a B&B and found a new apartment  - huge with a washing maching. It even has views down towards the bay. I love Booking.com. You can book and change booking usually with no penalty.......

Watched a bit of Olympics and went to dinner where !!!!  surprise they had the Olympics on and we saw yet another Irish boxer in action . It seems Paddy Barnes ,who was trained at the Holy Family Golden Glove Boxing club in Belfast was going to win a bronze. What a name for a boxing club. These Irish love a fight!

We're looking forward to seeing Katy win GOLD tomorrow..



Tuesday, August 7, 2012

KENMARE

After a very good sleep and Irish breakfast including the home made soda bread , we took the car with directions from Finnoula and started the "ring" we decided to do it Clockwise opposite to the tour buses. We also wanted to go across to Valentia an small island off the south end of the ring. It was where the first underwater cable was laid.
The drive was everything we thought.  Spectacular scenery, rolling hills, narrow lane - roads lined with either trees or stone fences. It was gorgeous.
We passed several small towns making a few stops - one for a coffee but sadly weren't up to a Guinness at the beach bar. There was a beach with sand and a  camping area and a sign encouraging one to stop for a drink at "Irelands only beach side bar". We had a laugh at that one!

We continued on and at Portmagee crossed over the bridge to Valentia. We made a stop for lunch at Knight's Town.. It was obviously a summer holiday spot with some very English sounding people there for boating and that afternoon there was to be a rowing carnival. Everyone was rugged up and it didn't feel like summer. The locals were all complaining about the rain! We drove along the island toward the ferry back to the mainland.

We drove back along the Ring after using the car ferry to get back to the mainland. Passed through a town with horses and cows for sale and I had to resist - as I saw one very cute cow!

We were going to take a short cut across the ring but got a little lost (no signs and very confusing) Ended up visiting a car museum with a very interesting Irish gentleman named John showing us his cars . There in his big shed he had around 35cars, motor bikes and even a jeep. Steve had a ball talking to him and he was so sweet .

We arrived back intime to do some emails and a chat with Finnoula  before setting off on our 10 min walk into town. We had dinner at Foley's followed by a drink at Ryan's ( where we chatted to a funny man called Martin who loves Australians and told me his Mother's name was Frances)  and a final drink at O'Malleys to listen to some music. I Love all the names of the pubs!   Then home to bed.

TUESDAY

We had an early start driving through the most beautiful landscape to Muckross House set in gorgeous gardens by a lovely lake. The weather had cleared and it was blue and sparkly. We did a tour and found out all sorts of info from our little guide named Mary McCarthy. We had lunch in Killarney ( we were glad we had stayed in Kenmare as it was very touristy here) then  moved on towards the Dingle .

We started to see some beaches and as its summer holidays, there were bodies on the beaches.
We stopped at Inch beach and just watched . It was so funny to see the cars drive right down onto the sand where signs warned them to drive carefully in the sand! There were kids having surfing lessons, kids digging, dogs running,  people drinking coffee at the cafe and everyone seemed to own a wet suit. Must be very cold in that water .

Continued onto Dingle and found it to be a charming little seaside town. Quite arty crafty. They had a trail of  arts and crafts which we visited followed using the map supplied at the Information Centre. Found a great leather place. Had to drive down a very long drive but finally arrived at a showroom - very small and very tastefully done. Beautiful bags on sale so I couldn't resist. Steve promised to carry it home for me (long with the beautiful throw rug I bought at Muckross House).

 So we booked into our B&B  Dunlvin House to find she had given our front room away. The room was got was on the back of the house and was really very good. For 70E a night with a big breakfast it was a bargin. We freshened up and made our way back to town for a drink and dinner.

We walked around the town and finally booked for dinner at a shack (called Out of the Blue) which had come recommended  - it sold fish but NO CHIPS! We got the last table and that was at 8.30. So started with a little pub crawl. Dinner was just great. Again not just a Fish and Chippery. Really good seafood.

I had wanted to stay at Castlewood House which we passed on the walk back into Dingle. It looked lovely.  Anyone booking here try and get a little closer in to save walking along a very dark road after a few drinks!

In saying that - our B&B was quiet and breakfast great.








Ferry cross to the island
I nearly bought a cow just to talk to the charming Irish man with the shillelagh


Monday, August 6, 2012

A few photos

Beautiful scenery around every corner  ...or curve on the Ring of Kerry
Steve enjoying lunch in Kinsale on the way to Kenmare
Kilkenny castle seen from the street
Main street of Kilkenny a beautiful town
The Rock of Cashel
Last year visited by the Queen on her Ireland tour
The cemetery outside the Cathedral of Cashel

KENMARE

Arrived in Kenmare late in the afternoon After a visit to Kinsale just south of Cork.
 Kinsale is a beautiful little port town - for fishing and boating -sailing and canoeing. There  were lots of jaunty little coloured houses with lots of the usual eating places and gift type shops.

Despite the fact there were heaps of Fish and Chippy places we hunted out a place called Fishy Fishy,  recommended by the McGregors . We got a table and had a lovely lunch  - Steve had a huge bowl of mussels and I had a lovely warm seafood salad. Then we walked around the town wishing we could take a boat ride around the little port, before heading off to Kenmare, making a few stops along the way to admire the views, the old ruins,  the people and some very  funny signs.

Drove into pretty Kenmare and it's two main streets were jumping. Lots of visitors for the bank holiday. Most if them local Irish we think. But the place was jumpin'.

We found our B&B just a ten minute walk out of town , met Finnoula and Danny the owners and unpacked into our room. It's very comfortable and should be quiet. Sometimes I feel funny in B&Bs . It's like staying with friends you don't know well and one has to behave! No funny noises!

We walked into town and found one pub after the next to have a drink and chat. Not being very hungry after a big lunch and a cider to warm me up,  I settled on a bowl of soup and Steve had Guinness sausages. We decided to wait for the music to start but I think Paddy or  Danny or whatever his name is,  was chatting and drinking himself. So  he finally started at 9.30. Nothing much happen too early here  They like their late nights! We sang along for a few of the rowdier songs and then left for home before we drank too much Guinness. We had the ring of kerry to drive in the morning and didn't want to have hangovers!

Big sleep before we do The Ring...... The famous ring of Kerry.


KILKENNY

We drove through rain to Kilkenny and between showers the sun came out. We like to think its us! Kilkenny s a lovely town on a river with its very own castle.

We found  our hotel. All the good B&Bs were booked as its the bank holiday this weekend. So we arrived at the rather lovely Hibernian  Hotel and found it was lovely. They gave us an upgrade to a suite ! We thought lucky us but it seems it could be a backhander as she warned there maybe noise due to the late night disco on the ground floor. Yikes! But there were double glazed windows so we slept v well.

That afternoon we visited the castle and like everything else it  is very old and gradually being done up. It's set in beautiful grounds. We walked around the town, window shopping and visiting churches. I must say for a catholic country it doesn't feel very catholic. In fact the religion seems to be drinking ! There are so many pubs. I've developed a taste for Guinness and cider.

We had a really great dinner at Zuni a small restaurant we found near the hotel and the food was lovely.

We spent the night in the "suite" and didn't hear the pub noise, though the next morning they told us it lasted till 3am! My earplugs worked well.

The next morning we walked around the v quiet town and took some photos before heading for Kinsale and onto Kenmare.

We have a VW polo and Steve is enjoying driving.... I think! I'm enjoying being a passenger. 

Friday, August 3, 2012

In Dublin fair city....where the girls are so pretty ....I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone.
Loved the street theatre. These ones made us laugh.
St Anne's Street. The streets are great for wandering
Beautiful flowers on every street

Went to the Library and there were some great scenes from the past.
St Anne's Street Dublin. Streets are wonderful to wander along. Lots to see


Wednesday, August 1, 2012

View from the house in Canary Wharf
Lunch with Peter and Elizabeth McGregor and their friend Corinne at Gordon Ramsey's restaurant on the Thames near Canary Wharf
Peter and Steve rode home after lunch! the girls walked.
Steve's school friend Ian Barnes. We stayed with he and wife Ali at Islington - a great area in London. Our room was on the 5th floor! with great views over the suburb. Had dinner at Ottolunghi a really great little restaurant.
The pubs of Dublin are fantastic

Loving the streets of Dublin. Beautiful buildings, interesting people and the pubs! on every street.

IRELAND Starting in Dublin

Had to get up very early to make our way to the station then Gatwick airport. We'd had  a lovely meal cooked by our host Ian the night before and a few glasses of Italian red so it was hard to get up!

But we made it to Gatwick - not  the best airport in the world. It always seems crowded with groups of people going on cheap holidays to Europe . All flying Rynair which is not the best airline, but you get what you pay for..... and have to keep paying for anything extra. It's a free for all when boarding starts! I'm surprised you don't have to pay to use the toilets!

The plane left late and we arrived into Dublin around 11.30 a and at our hotel, Wynn's Hotel, too early to check in. So we found a pub( really easy in Ireland) and had lunch. Both of us had cider as its so refreshing.

The Hotel in Abby St was a good find. It's old, central, lovely room for a big breakfast and nice comfortable room ( 5th floor overlooking Abbey St , with an opening window)

We were an easy walk to the bridge across to the main area for bars and music.
Really enjoyed our days wandering the streets of Dublin. Did a walking tour  which included the university - a good thing to do.

Also did the hop on and off bus and tours of the Guinness brewery and Jameisons whiskey. Both really good. Had lunch at Guinness on the top floor. Really good.